Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Truncated Lecce history . . .


         Duomo Bell Tower--it's top sections are visible from Karla's lovely studio apartment

According to legend, Lecce was founded a century before the war of Troy by Malennio, a king of the Salentines.  It was an important cultural center during the period of Greek colonization, followed by domination by the Romans who fortified the city against possible attacks from Macedonia.  Remains from the Roman period include an amphitheatre capable of holding 25,000 spectators (night photo below below left). Following that period the Normans arrived and established Lecce as a privileged seat for their kings and nobles who contributed splendid buildings and refined customs and manners (which still exist--it remains a remarkably polite culture).

Theatrical performance in the city assumed particular importance, with roots going back to the Greek settlement. The University of Lecce contains a library of more than 8,000 theatrical volumes, the only specialized collection of its kind in the world, according to a 1980 tourism pamphlet edited by Mario Adda. Opera is popularly appreciated here, with performances held in the ancient Roman amphitheater (see night photo of empty theatre at left).  Architectural & decorative styles range from spartan to baroque, offering visual contrasts at every turn.






Lecce is the capital of the Baroque.  The Santa Croce Cathedral (left) represents the eccentric style of aristocrats who lived side by side with peasants, tradesmen, craftsmen and others of more practical needs.
I haven't counted the number of churches in the city, but they are numerous, typically replete with rows of impressive pillars, mosaics, frescoes, ornate carved ceilings, putti, beautiful statuary, etc.  Today our landlady mentioned that most of the residences & other buildings here in the historic section of the city (including our current quarters) are built upon layers of ancient tunnels, foundations and artifacts. (Duomo & bishop's palace pictured right).

Chiara, our landlady, said that her mother originally owned the property and had at one time begun excavation below her house, but stopped when she learned that all of the underground tunnels in the area connected & lead to the center of the historic town.  For fascinating info regarding Lecce underground findings, go to:

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/world/europe/centuries-of-italian-history-are-unearthed-in-quest-to-fix-toilet.html?_r=0


Does she love it here??

Along our walk home last evening, we enjoyed waltzes and eastern folk tunes played by these talented street musicians, a la flute and accordion.

















Do we love it here?  



What's not to love?

6 comments:

  1. It's almost time to talk about the food and wine . . . still sampling and loosening our belts.

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  2. Bella, bella, bella! Enjoy, be free, indulge. LZ

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  3. I am with you in spirit! Love to you all!

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